Saturday, 13 November 2010

In the Press

Men's Folio (Nov/Dec 2010)
Text: Kien Koh
Styling: Wei Lun
Photographer: Mickey Wong

On model: Steel blue 2-ply cotton chambray shirt with mini pocket, midnight blue Guabello Biella 1815 Super 130's pure virgin wool pants with brass side-tabs.

On Dylan: Optical white 100% cotton Oxford shirt with tartan elbow-patch, pure cotton tapered-fit khakis.

Saturday, 6 November 2010

Words of Wisdom - What is Style?

"Style speaks simply and softly... It is about details and small, personal touches. It is not loud, it is not brash; it is not obvious.

The wearer of a bespoke suit should look good without the man (or woman) on the street knowing exactly why. He does because of miniscule details and attention to fit that the layman cannot readily identify.

What you wear should certainly not be determined by what other people think. But at the same time, style is revealed against the background of one’s environment and peers. It does not exist in isolation." - Simon Crompton of Permanent Style.

What else can I say? This gentleman read my mind, word for word. I'm speechless.

Wednesday, 3 November 2010

The Long and Short of It

Way too short or just about perfect?

It seems like a lot of people these days are asking: what is the right length for a pair of pants?

There really isn't a 'correct' length so to speak. It all depends on 3 factors -

(1) your personal preference
(2) the environment of your lifestyle
(3) your body type

1. PERSONAL PREFERENCE
There's not much explaining to do for this point. It's like how people would say 'red wine goes with red meat, and white wine with white meat'. I say screw that - I'm paying for my meal, and you'll promptly give me my pinot noir with my grilled sea-bass if I tell you to.

However, as a general guide, taller wearers should try wearing pants with a decent amount of break (the fold created where your pants rest on the shoes is called the 'break'). This will prevent them from looking like secondary school boys who've just experienced a sudden growth spurt, and had grown too tall for their pants. Inversely, shorter guys should go easy on the break and wear it a little shorter. Having a whole yard of excess fabric bunched up at the ankles looks extremely slouchy.

The group of traditional tailors I work with always look in amusement at the shorter length of my pants - they very rarely touch my shoes at all. They simply cannot fathom why anyone would cut their pants like mine.

They'll lament: "You're projecting the wrong image for your customers!"

Well, that's the way I like to rock 'em. So yeah.

2. ENVIRONMENT
Your line of work, and where you wear that pair of pants to, for what occasion; is another important factor. You'll be wise not to sport that pair of pants you wore to the fashion event in Harajuku to a share-holders' board meeting next week.

For example, a guy from the banking industry (eg. a wealth analyst), will most likely wear his pants with a decent amount of break. For him to be taken seriously by his clients, and also to avoid getting into his conservative bosses' bad books, he'll have to conform to the general public's level of acceptance regarding dress codes. A longer pair of pants is more traditional and readily accepted, while a cropped-length one is definately more forward and trendy (Google Thom Browne. Warning: not for the faint-hearted).

In contrast, a dude in the creative industry (eg. a graphics designer) will probably be able to get away with cropped-length trousers. In fact, it might even put him in better position than those who dress safe. His line of work encourages creativity, and showing your personal individuality and flair is a good sign.

3. BODY TYPE
The problem with shorter pants is that it will tend to flap around the ankles when walking. Therefore, the hem of the pants is always cut slimer and smaller (probably 14" max). In relation, this will give the pants a slim and tapered fit. If you're on the heavy side, this might not be the most flattering look :(

~

As previously stated here, the reason why a lot of European men wear their pants shorter is because they want to show the world their beautifully made shoes. Longer pants will just cover up half of the shoe. Therefore, if you're gonna attempt the shorter look, make sure your shoes are beautiful and polished. Those square-toed, shiny synthetic leather ones with the upward-curving toe-caps you find from stores with the permanent 'SALE' signs all-year-round should forever be confined to a dark corner inside your shoe cupboard. Amen.

Tuesday, 2 November 2010

Clone Me

Click on picture to enlarge